Invisible setting and methods for effecting same

ABSTRACT

A mounting holds a grooved gemstone invisibly to a setting. One end of the mounting has arms or extensions, reinforced by struts, to receive the gemstone and protrusions extending inwardly from the arms to fit in the grooves of the gemstone, the mounting further comprising a retainer which is inserted into the setting, and then twisted to retain the mounting in place and may lever the arms to press harder into the groove. The mounting is adjustable. The retainer may be cylindrical, with a lengthwise split to make the deformation easier. As an alternative, the insertion may comprise planar members which are likewise inserted and then distorted. The mounting may have two or more gemstone compartments. Multiple coronets may be fitted on a molded base with reinforcements between the coronets.

FIELD AND BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

The present invention, in some embodiments thereof, relates to an invisible setting for diamonds and other precious stones that are faceted, and methods for effecting such settings.

Invisible settings have been around for many years and have been very successful. The traditional invisible mounting involves fitting a protrusion of the setting, or mounting medium into a groove pre-formed in the stone. The groove is hidden behind the face of the stone, hence the face hiding the mounting, which therefore becomes invisible. The setting or mounting medium may be the metal body of the ring or other jewelry item.

A well-known problem with invisible mountings is the ease with which the stone is able to fall out of the mounting. The setting can often change shape over time. The finger on which the ring is mounted may change shape over time, or the metal may expand or contract with changes in temperature, so that what began as a tight fit may get looser over time until the stone falls out. Where multiple stones are mounted in a row, if the setting bends in a particular direction all of the stones are liable to fall out.

A further issue with invisible settings is the time and skilled labor required to set a stone, or replace a stone after it falls out. A tight fit is required by making a secure mounting at a location that cannot be seen, and the stones themselves are generally quite small. Setting a single stone typically takes in excess of twenty minutes in the hands of a skilled setter.

U.S. Pat. No. 6,112,552 teaches an invisible gemstone setting having channels into which the grooved gemstones are snapped and secured. Each channel is provided with opposing flexible prong members extending from the base of the gemstone setting. As the grooved gemstones are snapped into the channels the prong members flex outwardly as the gemstones are pushed downwards into the channels. The prong members snap into engagement with the gemstones to securely hold the gemstones within the channels. When the channels are filled the setting becomes invisible.

In this case, the gemstone is more easily mounted but the same problem arises that if the setting changes shape, the initially firm grip on the gemstone is liable to be lost.

Current invisible setting technologies allow setting of hard stones into semi-hard metal mountings, and are practically limited to setting of diamonds in gold. Use of softer stones or softer or harder metals result in breakage of the stone during setting (e.g., when the stone is soft and the metal hard) and/or falling off of the stone during use (e.g., when the metal is soft and readily distorts).

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present embodiments provide a separate mounting for holding the grooved gemstone, which separate mounting is held within but is not part of the gemstone setting. Thus changes in shape in the setting have no bearing on how firmly the gemstone is held. The jewelry setting no longer needs to include the protrusion for fitting into the gemstone groove, as this is now part of the separate mounting. Instead however the setting may incorporate hollows or openings for holding the mountings.

According to an aspect of some embodiments of the present invention there is provided a mounting for holding a grooved gemstone invisibly to a setting, the mounting having a first end with extensions to receive the gemstone, and protrusions extending inwardly from the extensions at a location weakened by a reduction in thickness in relation to predetermined wall thicknesses of the mounting, the protrusions to fit within respective mounting grooves of the grooved gemstone, the mounting further comprising a holding configuration for lockingly holding the mounting to the setting, an angle at which the protrusions extend from the mounting being variable by application of pressure across the weakened location.

In an embodiment, the extensions and the protrusions form arcs of a circle to receive a rounded gemstone.

In an embodiment, the extensions and the protrusions are respectively straight and parallel, to receive a rectangular gemstone.

In an embodiment, the extensions are bifurcated and angled with respect to each other, to receive separate gemstones.

According to a second aspect of the present invention there is provided a mounting for holding a grooved gemstone invisibly to a setting, the mounting having a first end with extensions to receive the gemstone and protrusions extending inwardly from the extensions to fit within respective mounting grooves of the grooved gemstone, the mounting further comprising a holding configuration for lockingly holding the mounting to the setting, wherein the holding configuration is configured to protrude at least partially from a first end forming a base part of the setting towards a second end away from the base part for extension through the setting, the holding configuration comprising a split at least partially extending from the second end towards the first end, the split allowing the holding configuration to be deformed by a deformation tool applied to the second end after extension through the setting to carry out the locking, the deformation being effective to press the mounting into the setting and thereby to cause the setting to lever the mounting to push the protrusions into the groove.

According to a third aspect of the present invention there is provided a mounting for holding a grooved gemstone invisibly to a setting, the mounting having a first end with extensions to receive the gemstone and protrusions extending inwardly from the extensions to fit within respective mounting grooves of the grooved gemstone, the mounting further comprising reinforcement thickenings on inner walls of the mounting and a holding configuration for lockingly holding the mounting to the setting, wherein the holding configuration is configured to protrude at least partially from a first end forming a base part of the setting towards a second end away from the base part for extension through the setting, the holding configuration being deformable by a deformation tool applied to the second end after extension through the setting to carry out the locking, the deformation being effective to press the mounting into the setting and thereby to cause the setting to lever the mounting to push the protrusions into the groove.

According to a fourth aspect of the present invention there is provided a mounting for holding a grooved gemstone invisibly to a setting, the mounting having a first end with extensions to receive the gemstone and protrusions extending inwardly from the extensions to fit within respective mounting grooves of the grooved gemstone, the mounting further comprising a holding configuration for lockingly holding the mounting to the setting, wherein the holding configuration is configured to protrude at least partially from a first end forming a base part of the setting towards a second end away from the base part for extension through the setting, the holding configuration comprising two substantially parallel legs, the two legs being separately deformable after extension through the setting to carry out the locking, the deformation being effective to press the mounting into the setting and thereby to cause the setting to lever the mounting to push the protrusions into the groove.

In an embodiment, the legs extend centrally under the mounting.

In an embodiment, the legs are separated by substantially a width of the mounting.

According to a fifth aspect of the present invention, there is provided a mounting for holding a grooved gemstone invisibly to a setting, the mounting having a first end with extensions to receive the gemstone and protrusions extending inwardly from the extensions to fit within respective mounting grooves of the grooved gemstone, the mounting further comprising a holding configuration for lockingly holding the mounting to the setting, wherein the holding configuration is configured to protrude at least partially from a first end forming a base part of the setting towards a second end away from the base part for extension through the setting, the holding configuration being deformable after extension through the setting to carry out the locking, the deformation being effective to press the mounting into the setting and thereby to cause the setting to lever the mounting to push the protrusions into the groove, wherein the extensions are bifurcated and angled with respect to each other, to receive separate gemstones.

According to a sixth aspect of the present invention there is provided a mounting for holding a plurality of grooved gemstones invisibly, the mounting comprising a base with parallel rows of coronets, the coronets comprising oppositely facing extension pairs to receive the gemstones and protrusions of each extension pair extending inwardly to facing extension of a respective pair to fit within respective mounting grooves of the grooved gemstones, the mounting further comprising spacings between the coronets, the spacings being shaped to receive wall supports after insertion of the gem stones, the wall supports pressing outwardly on adjacent extensions to force the protrusions to be retained in the grooves.

In an embodiment, the base comprises end supports.

In an embodiment, the coronets are substantially U shaped.

In an embodiment, the base comprises injection-moulded plastic and the coronets are metallic.

In an embodiment, respective coronets of a row are connected.

In an embodiment, the base comprises coronet receptacles and the coronets are U shaped with a lower part of the U shape configured to fit in the receptacles.

In an embodiment, the coronets are soldered onto the receptacles.

According to a seventh aspect of the present invention there is provided a mounting for gemstones comprising a plurality of locations for holding respective gemstone mountings between supports, the location comprising extensions with lateral protrusions for extending into grooves of respective gemstones to hold the gemstones, the extensions being arranged back to back and configured to receive inserts after insertion of the gemstones, the inserts pushing the extensions to securely close the respective lateral protrusions of respective supports into the grooves to hold the gemstone to the mounting.

In an embodiment, the supports and extensions comprise a soft metal.

According to an eighth aspect of the present invention there is provided an item of jewelry comprising a base and a plurality of coronet mountings for mounting gemstones and a plurality of gemstones mounted on the plurality of coronet mountings and invisibly mounted on the item of jewelry, the item of jewelry further comprising wedges inserted between the coronets to secure walls of the coronets into grooves of the gemstones.

In an embodiment, the base comprises injection moulded plastic and the plurality of coronet mountings are made of metal.

The gemstones when assembled may provide a non-planar outer outline to the item, the outline comprising curvature.

According to a ninth aspect of the present invention there is provided a method of making jewelry using gemstones, the method comprising:

inserting grooves into the gemstones;

mounting the gemstones to a setting by:

providing a setting having a plurality of mounting locations,

providing mounting coronets at each mounting location, the mounting coronets having arms and protrusions at a distal end of respective arms to fit into the grooves;

pressing the gemstones into respective coronet mountings;

inserting wedges between the coronets, the wedges pressing the arms inwardly to lock the protrusions into the grooves, thereby mounting respective gemstones via inward pressure on a body of the gemstone.

According to a tenth aspect of the present invention there is provided a method of making jewelry using flawed gemstones, the method comprising:

inserting grooves into the flawed gemstones;

mounting the flawed gemstones to a setting by:

providing a setting having a plurality of mounting locations,

providing mounting coronets at each mounting location, the mounting coronets having arms and protrusions at a distal end of respective arms to fit into the grooves;

pressing the flawed gemstones into respective coronet mountings;

inserting wedges between the coronets, the wedges pressing the arms inwardly to lock the protrusions into the grooves, thereby mounting the flawed gemstones via inward pressure on a body of the respective flawed gemstone, thereby obviating reliance on structural resilience of the flawed gemstone.

According to an eleventh aspect of the present invention there is provided a method of making jewelry using false gemstones made of material weaker than a gemstone, the method comprising:

inserting grooves into the false gemstones;

mounting the false gemstones to a setting by:

providing a setting having a plurality of mounting locations,

providing mounting coronets at each mounting location, the mounting coronets having arms and protrusions at a distal end of respective arms to fit into the grooves;

pressing the false gemstones into respective coronet mountings;

inserting wedges between the coronets, the wedges pressing the arms inwardly to lock the protrusions into the grooves, thereby mounting the false gemstone via inward pressure on a body of the false gemstone, thereby obviating reliance on structural resilience of the false gemstone.

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and/or scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which the invention pertains. Although methods and materials similar or equivalent to those described herein can be used in the practice or testing of embodiments of the invention, exemplary methods and/or materials are described below. In case of conflict, the patent specification, including definitions, will control. In addition, the materials, methods, and examples are illustrative only and are not intended to be necessarily limiting.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS

Some embodiments of the invention are herein described, by way of example only, with reference to the accompanying drawings. With specific reference now to the drawings in detail, it is stressed that the particulars shown are by way of example and for purposes of illustrative discussion of embodiments of the invention. In this regard, the description taken with the drawings makes apparent to those skilled in the art how embodiments of the invention may be practiced.

In the drawings:

FIG. 1 is a simplified schematic diagram showing a mounting according to an embodiment of the present invention showing how protrusions for holding the gemstone can be adjusted;

FIG. 2 is a perspective view of the mounting of FIG. 1;

FIG. 3 is a view from above of the mounting of FIG. 1;

FIG. 4 is a view from one side of the mounting of FIG. 1;

FIGS. 5-8 are simplified views from different directions of a variation of the mounting of FIG. 1 designed for a round gemstone;

FIGS. 9-10 are two schematic views of a mounting for a round gemstone having two centrally located downward extensions for insertion into the setting followed by distortion, according to an embodiment of the present invention;

FIGS. 11-12 are two schematic views of a mounting for a round gemstone having two outwardly located downward extensions for insertion into the setting followed by distortion, according to an embodiment of the present invention;

FIGS. 13-18 are different schematic views of a variation of the embodiment of FIGS. 9 and 10, in which centrally located extensions are used for retaining in the setting, the embodiment being designed for a rectangular gemstone;

FIGS. 19-22 are a simplified diagram illustrating a variation of the rectangular gemstone mounting in which the extensions for retention in the settings are outwardly located on opposite sides of the base, in accordance with embodiments of the present invention;

FIGS. 23-26 are simplified diagrams illustrating an embodiment of the present invention having a bifurcated mounting for holding separate gemstones;

FIG. 27 is a simplified cross-sectional diagram illustrating an embodiment of the present invention in which multiple coronets are fitted into a base, gemstones are fitted into the coronets and then reinforcers or retainers ensure that the retainers are securely held; and

FIGS. 28-31 are simplified views illustrating various stages in the construction of the embodiment of FIG. 27.

DESCRIPTION OF SPECIFIC EMBODIMENTS OF THE INVENTION

A co-pending application of the present applicants relates to an invisible setting for diamonds and other precious stones in jewelry, and methods and tools for effecting such settings. A mounting is used to hold the gemstone within the setting, so that the process of fixing the gemstone in position is made easier and so that distortions to the setting over time do not affect the integrity of the way in which the gemstone is held.

The mounting contains a protrusion for holding the gemstone via a groove. In the present embodiments, the mounting is adjustable, both in length and in the angle of the protrusion. The mounting is fixed to the setting by insertion through a hole and then deforming the insertion from behind. In the present embodiments the insertion may be cylindrical, and the cylinder may be provided with a lengthwise split to make the deformation more effective.

As an alternative, the insertion may comprise one, two or more planar members. The planar members may be centrally located under the mounting with a small space in between them, for distortion together by a single action. Alternatively, the planar members may be located on opposite sides of the mounting.

Struts may be used to reinforce the arms on which the protrusions are mounted.

In an embodiment, the mounting may accommodate more than one gemstone, for example in two compartments which may be angled from each other.

The mounting may accommodate rectangular or round gemstones.

In an embodiment the mounting comprises a base manufactured using a plastic injection molding process. The base may contain positions for one or more gemstones, and may even include multiple rows of gemstone positions. The gemstones are inserted into position between arms which have protrusions to hold the gemstones by grooves and after insertion of the gemstone, supports may be inserted behind the arms to prevent the protrusions from dislocating from the grooves.

In the present disclosure the term “gemstone” is used to refer not only to diamonds and other precious and semiprecious stones, but also to glass, metals, plastic and anything else that can be made into a decorative mounting for jewelry and like products.

As will be explained in greater detail below, the mounting relies less than traditional settings on the strength of the stone to retain the stone in place, and thus the invisible setting with the mounting of the present embodiments is suitable for flawed gemstones and for weaker materials altogether.

Top grade gemstones consist of alexandrites, aquamarines, diamonds, emeralds, garnet, opals, pearls, rubies, sapphires, spinels and topaz. More generally, there are over 130 types of minerals that have been used as gemstones.

These include, but not limited to:

Agate

Alexandrite and other varieties of chrysoberyl

Andalusite

Axinite

Benitoite

Aquamarine and other varieties of beryl

Bixbite (Red beryl)

Cassiterite

Chrysocolla

Chrysoprase

Clinohumite

Iolite

Danburite

Diamond

Diopside

Dioptase

Dumortierite

Emerald

Feldspar (moonstone)

Garnet

Hambergite

Hematite

Jade—jadeite and nephrite

Jasper

Kornerupine

Kunzite

Lapis lazuli

Malachite

Natural moissanite

Obsidian

Olivine (Peridot)

Opal (Girasol)

Pyrite

Quartz and its varieties:

-   -   Agate     -   Amethyst (cardinal gem)     -   Citrine     -   Chalcedony (bloodstone)     -   Onyx     -   Tiger's-eye

Ruby

Sapphire dark blue

Spinel

Sugilite

Tanzanite and other varieties of zoisite

Topaz

Turquoise

Tourmaline

Variscite

Zeolite (Thomsonite), and

Zircon

In addition, artificial or synthetic materials that have been used as gems include:

High-lead glass

Synthetic corundum

Synthetic cubic zirconia

Synthetic spinel

Synthetic moissanite

Synthetic alexandrite

Synthetic opal

Synthetic turquoise

Synthetic diamond

Synthetic quartz

Synthetic beryl

cristinite

YAG yttrium aluminium garnet

Organic materials may also be used as gems, and examples include:

Amber

Ammonite—from fossils formed from the shells of extinct ammonites.

Bone

Coral

Ivory

Jet (lignite)

Nacre (Mother of pearl) and

Pearl.

The settings and mountings may be made of injection molded or printed or other plastic, titanium, gold, silver, stainless steel, ceramic, brass, pewter, glass, and base metals in general.

In addition to jewelry, the embodiments may be applied to mounting of gemstones as defined above, on fashion bags, leather bags, purses and wallets, directly on clothing and accessories, including spectacles, on white goods, on personal articles such as watches, pens, mobile telephones and mobile phone covers, etc., on other consumer articles and also to mounting on vehicles or parts of vehicles, such as the steering and dashboard on luxury cars, and onto buildings and parts of buildings. Thus precious or semi-precious stones and crystals may be set into the walls of foyers or bathrooms and the like.

Before explaining at least one embodiment of the invention in detail, it is to be understood that the invention is not necessarily limited in its application to the details of construction and the arrangement of the components and/or methods set forth in the following description and/or illustrated in the drawings and/or the Examples. The invention is capable of other embodiments or of being practiced or carried out in various ways.

Referring now to the drawings, FIG. 1 illustrates a mounting 10 for holding a grooved gemstone (not shown) invisibly to a setting (not shown). The mounting 10 has a base 12 with extensions or arms 14 to receive the gemstone, and groove-holding protrusions 16 extending inwardly from the extensions 14 to fit into grooves in the gemstone. The protrusions extend from the tip of the wall of the extension 14 at a location 17 which may be weakened by a reduction 16 in thickness in relation to the wall thicknesses of the extension or the protrusion. The weakening makes the protrusion easy to bend upwards or downwards as shown by arrow 18. The extensions themselves can additionally or alternatively be angled in the direction of angle 20, or can be made into different lengths in accordance with arrow 22. The protrusions fit within mounting grooves of the grooved gemstone. The mounting further comprises a holding configuration 24 which is extended through a hole in the setting and then can be distorted to lock the mounting to the setting, as will be shown in greater detail hereinbelow. Thus overall, the mounting can be modified to hold the gemstone at a convenient angle in view of the shape or configuration of the gemstone. In general, weakening of the wall is not considered a very good way of retaining the gemstone, however, in the present embodiments, the mounting is held fast to the setting and the walls of the setting prevent the arms from moving outwards. Thus the protrusions are held fast in the grooves.

FIG. 1 shows the extensions and protrusions straight and parallel, to receive a square or rectangular gemstone. The extensions and protrusions may equally well be shaped to form arcs of a circle to receive a round gemstone, as will be shown in later figures.

Reference is now made to FIG. 2, which shows the mounting of FIG. 1 from a different angle. Parts that are the same as in FIG. 1 are given the same reference numerals and are not discussed again except as needed for an understanding of the present figure. In FIG. 2 the extensions 14 and protrusions 16 are shown at an oblique angle. Struts 26, on the inner walls of the extensions 14, strengthen the extensions 14 and keep them at a fixed angle to base 12. Holding configuration 24 is a cylinder and is inserted through a hole in the setting. After insertion the holding configuration protrudes from the other side of the setting, and once in position, is distorted, typically with a tool, in order to lock the mounting to the setting. The cylinder may comprise a split 28 which at least partially extends from the far extremity 30 of the cylinder back towards the base 12. The split 28 allows the cylinder to be deformed more easily, typically but not necessarily by a deformation tool applied to the cylinder towards the far extremity 30. As mentioned above, the deformation may be effective to press the mounting into the setting and thereby to cause the setting to lever the extensions 14 and push the protrusions 16 fast into the gemstone grooves.

FIG. 3 shows the same mounting from above, and FIG. 4 shows the mounting from the side perpendicular to the length of the arms. It is seen from FIG. 4 that the struts 26 are constructed by stamping into the thickness of the metal wall, and thus the struts are visible from the outside as inclusions or concavities.

FIGS. 5 to 8 show a variation of the embodiment of FIG. 1 in which the mounting is designed for a rounded gemstone. The extensions 14 and protrusions 16 form arcs of a circle as discussed above. FIG. 5 is a view from above. FIG. 6 is a perspective view from above. FIG. 7 is a side view from the direction between the extensions, and FIG. 8 is a side view from the direction across the extensions.

Reference is now made to FIGS. 9 and 10, which are simplified diagrams showing a further alternative of the embodiment of FIG. 1. Again, parts that are the same as in previous figures are given the same reference numerals and are not described again except as needed for an understanding of the present figure. FIGS. 9 and 10 show an embodiment 40 of the mounting designed for a rounded gemstone, and in place of the cylindrical holding configuration 24, there are provided two planar extensions 40 and 42 extending perpendicularly from base 12 in a direction away from the mounting. As shown in FIGS. 9 and 10, the planar extensions 42 and 44 are located close to each centrally across the base 12. In FIG. 9 the extensions are straight, in their positions prior to use. The extensions are inserted into a corresponding opening in the setting, pulled through and then twisted or otherwise distorted to fix the mounting tightly into the setting. In FIG. 10 the extensions are distorted, in order to provide tight retention of the mounting in the setting after insertion.

Reference is now made to FIGS. 11 and 12, which are a variation 50 of the embodiment of FIGS. 9 and 10 in which the planar extensions, 52 and 54, are at opposite sides of base 12, that is to say, separated by substantially a width of the mounting. Again, FIG. 11 shows the extensions in the state in which they are provided, prior to insertion. FIG. 12 shows the extensions after distortion.

Reference is now made to FIGS. 13 and 14, which are a variation 60 of the embodiment of FIGS. 9 and 10 in which the mounting is designed for a rectangular gemstone, and planar extensions, 62 and 64, are located centrally across base 12, that is to say, separated by a small width. Again, FIG. 13 shows the extensions in the state in which they are provided, prior to insertion. FIG. 14 shows the extensions after distortion. FIGS. 15 and 16 are side views of the same embodiment seen from a direction perpendicular to extensions 14. FIGS. 17 and 18 show the same embodiment from below. FIGS. 15 and 17 show the extensions in their initial state and FIGS. 16 and 18 show the extensions in their distorted state after insertion.

Reference is now made to FIGS. 19 and 20, which are a variation 70 of the embodiment of FIGS. 13 and 14 in which the mounting is again designed for a rectangular gemstone, and planar extensions, 72 and 74, are located at opposite ends of base 12, that is to say, separated by a small width. Again, FIG. 19 shows the extensions in the state in which they are provided, prior to insertion. FIG. 20 shows the extensions after distortion. FIGS. 21 and 22 are side views of the same embodiment seen from a direction perpendicular to extensions 14. FIG. 21 shows the extensions in their initial state and FIG. 22 shows the extensions in their distorted state after insertion.

Reference is now made to FIGS. 23 to 26, which are views from different directions of a mounting 80 designed to receive two gemstones in two bifurcated compartments 82 and 84. FIG. 23 shows a view from above. FIG. 24 shows a perspective view from above. FIG. 25 is a view from the side, looking along a direction perpendicular to the length of the extensions 14. FIG. 24 shows a side view from the direction parallel to extension 14. The embodiment of FIGS. 23 to 26 as illustrated is designed to receive two rectangular gemstones but this is purely exemplary and the principle can be extended to provide for two circular gemstones or one rectangular and one square gemstone. The figures show a cylindrical holding configuration but planar extensions may be used as alternatives.

In the embodiments shown the mounting 80 is bifurcated into two compartments 82 and 84 at an angular offset. The angular offset is optional and both the existence and size of the offset is a matter of aesthetics for the jewelry designer.

Reference is now made to FIG. 27, which is a schematic cross section illustrating a further embodiment of the present invention, in which a mounting 90 comprises a base 92 and coronets 94 inserted into the base. The coronets are here shown in cross section and have a base part 96, and arms or extensions 98 with protrusions 100 for gripping the grooves of the gemstones as before. The gems are snapped into the coronets either before or after the coronets are inserted into the base 92. Once the coronets with the gems are in position on the base then wall reinforcers 102 are inserted into the gaps between the coronets 94. The reinforcers ensure that the protrusions are retained fast in the grooves. In the embodiment of FIG. 27 there is no setting into which the mounting is held fast, so the base and the reinforcers take the place of holding fast into the setting to ensure that the protrusions are held fast into the grooves.

FIG. 28 shows the base 92 with two of the coronets 94 fitted, and the third coronet being inserted. Reinforcers 102 are ready for insertion into the wedge shaped gaps between the coronets. The coronets may be metal and may be made individually for single gemstones, or may be multiples having separate compartments for multiple gemstones. Either way they may typically be made using a stamping process and can be soldered into position on the base 92. The base 92 may be made of plastic using an injection molding process.

FIG. 29 shows the base 92 with coronets 94 fitted, and the reinforcers 102 ready for insertion. FIG. 28 shows the coronets as single pieces designed to fit three separate gemstones, fitted into a base designed for three coronets, but this is merely exemplary, and the coronets may be separate pieces for individual gemstones or single pieces made for multiple gemstones of any number. Likewise the base may be designed to take any number of gemstones and any number of coronets as considered worthwhile by the jewelry designer.

Reference is now made to FIG. 30, which is a simplified schematic diagram illustrating the assembly of the mounting 90. Coronets 94 are located in the base. Gemstones 104 are snapped into position in the coronets, typically by pressing the coronets onto the gemstones from above, so that protrusions 100 locate themselves into corresponding grooves in the gemstones. The reinforcers 102 are retained until after the gemstones 104 are in place and then the reinforcers 102 are inserted into the gaps formed by the back to back arms 98 of the coronets. In the case of coronets on the edge of the base 92, walls 106 of the base serve the purpose of retaining the arms in position.

Reference is now made to FIG. 31, which is a simplified diagram illustrating the process of inserting the wall retainers or reinforcers 102 and the gemstones 104. As discussed above, the stone is fixed or clicked into position in the coronet from the top by flexing the arms or extensions 98 of the coronet outwards slightly. Then the reinforcers or wall retainers are inserted to secure the stones in a fixed position, as the extensions 98 are rendered unable to flex.

In the above, reference was made to the supports and extensions being of metal. In the present embodiments the supports and extension may be manufactured from a soft metal since the grooves of the gemstones are firmly held due to the mechanical construction regardless of the hardness of the metal.

The gemstones when assembled may provide a non-planar outer outline to the jewelry item, for example using the embodiment of FIGS. 23 to 26, and the outline may comprise curvature in the mathematical sense.

The present constructions and methods are suitable for making jewelry using flawed gemstones since the groove is mechanically strong irrespective of local mechanical weaknesses that may cross part of the groove. Likewise the present constructions and methods are suitable for false gemstones, that is jewelry made of material weaker than a gemstone

It is expected that during the life of a patent maturing from this application many relevant pulse shaping and symbol decoding technologies will be developed and the scope of the corresponding terms in the present description are intended to include all such new technologies a priori.

The terms “comprises”, “comprising”, “includes”, “including”, “having” and their conjugates mean “including but not limited to”.

The term “consisting of” means “including and limited to”.

As used herein, the singular form “a”, “an” and “the” include plural references unless the context clearly dictates otherwise.

It is appreciated that certain features of the invention, which are, for clarity, described in the context of separate embodiments, may also be provided in combination in a single embodiment, and such a single embodiment is to be considered as written explicitly herein. Conversely, various features of the invention, which are, for brevity, described in the context of a single embodiment, may also be provided separately or in any suitable subcombination or as suitable in any other described embodiment of the invention and such separate embodiments or combination embodiments are to be regarded as explicitly described herein. Certain features described in the context of various embodiments are not to be considered essential features of those embodiments, unless the embodiment is inoperative without those elements.

Although the invention has been described in conjunction with specific embodiments thereof, it is evident that many alternatives, modifications and variations will be apparent to those skilled in the art. Accordingly, it is intended to embrace all such alternatives, modifications and variations that fall within the spirit and broad scope of the appended claims.

All publications, patents and patent applications mentioned in this specification are herein incorporated in their entirety by reference into the specification, to the same extent as if each individual publication, patent or patent application was specifically and individually indicated to be incorporated herein by reference. In addition, citation or identification of any reference in this application shall not be construed as an admission that such reference is available as prior art to the present invention. To the extent that section headings are used, they should not be construed as necessarily limiting. 

1. A mounting for holding a grooved gemstone invisibly to a setting, the mounting having a first end with extensions to receive the gemstone, and protrusions extending inwardly from said extensions at a location weakened by a reduction in thickness in relation to predetermined wall thicknesses of said mounting, said protrusions to fit within respective mounting grooves of the grooved gemstone, the mounting further comprising a holding configuration for lockingly holding said mounting to said setting, an angle at which said protrusions extend from said mounting being variable by application of pressure across said weakened location.
 2. The mounting of claim 1, wherein said extensions and said protrusions form arcs of a circle to receive a rounded gemstone.
 3. The mounting of claim 1, wherein said extensions and said protrusions are at least one of the group consisting of: respectively straight and parallel, to receive a rectangular gemstone; and bifurcated and angled with respect to each other, to receive separate gemstones. 4-8. (canceled)
 9. A mounting for holding a grooved gemstone invisibly to a setting, the mounting having a first end with extensions to receive the gemstone and protrusions extending inwardly from the extensions to fit within respective mounting grooves of the grooved gemstone, the mounting further comprising reinforcement thickenings on inner walls of said mounting and a holding configuration for lockingly holding the mounting to the setting, wherein said holding configuration is configured to protrude at least partially from a first end forming a base part of said setting towards a second end away from said base part for extension through said setting, said holding configuration being deformable by a deformation tool applied to said second end after extension through said setting to carry out said locking, said deformation being effective to press said mounting into said setting and thereby to cause said setting to lever said mounting to push said protrusions into said groove.
 10. The mounting of claim 9, wherein said extensions and said protrusions form arcs of a circle to receive a rounded gemstone.
 11. The mounting of claim 9, wherein said extensions and said protrusions are one member of the group consisting of: being respectively straight and parallel, to receive a rectangular gemstone; and being bifurcated and angled with respect to each other, to receive separate gemstones.
 12. (canceled)
 13. The mounting of claim 1 wherein said holding configuration is configured to protrude at least partially from a first end forming a base part of said setting towards a second end away from said base part for extension through said setting, said holding configuration comprising two substantially parallel legs, said two legs being separately deformable after extension through said setting to carry out said locking, said deformation being effective to press said mounting into said setting and thereby to cause said setting to lever said mounting to push said protrusions into said groove.
 14. The mounting of claim 13, wherein said legs extend centrally under said mounting.
 15. The mounting of claim 13, wherein said legs are separated by substantially a width of said mounting.
 16. The mounting of claim 13, wherein said extensions and said protrusions form arcs of a circle to receive a rounded gemstone.
 17. The mounting of claim 13, wherein said extensions and said protrusions are one member of the group consisting of: being respectively straight and parallel, to receive a rectangular gemstone; and being bifurcated and angled with respect to each other, to receive separate gemstones.
 18. (canceled)
 19. The mounting of claim 1, wherein said holding configuration is configured to protrude at least partially from a first end forming a base part of said setting towards a second end away from said base part for extension through said setting, said holding configuration being deformable after extension through said setting to carry out said locking, said deformation being effective to press said mounting into said setting and thereby to cause said setting to lever said mounting to push said protrusions into said groove, wherein said extensions are bifurcated and angled with respect to each other, to receive separate gemstones.
 20. The mounting of claim 1, being extended for holding a plurality of grooved gemstones invisibly, the mounting comprising a base with parallel rows of coronets, the coronets comprising oppositely facing extension pairs to receive the gemstones and protrusions of each extension pair extending inwardly to facing extension of a respective pair to fit within respective mounting grooves of the grooved gemstones, the mounting further comprising spacings between said coronets, the spacings being shaped to receive wall supports after insertion of said gem stones, said wall supports pressing outwardly on adjacent extensions to force said protrusions to be retained in said grooves.
 21. The mounting of claim 20, wherein said base comprises end supports.
 22. The mounting of claim 20, wherein said coronets are substantially U shaped.
 23. The mounting of claim 20, wherein said base comprises injection-moulded plastic and said coronets are metallic, or wherein said base comprises coronet receptacles and said coronets are U shaped with a lower part of said U shape configured to fit in said receptacles.
 24. The mounting of claim 20, wherein respective coronets of a row are connected.
 25. (canceled)
 26. The mounting of claim 20, wherein said coronets are soldered onto said receptacles.
 27. The mounting of claim 9 extended to comprise a plurality of locations for holding respective gemstone mountings between supports, said location comprising extensions with lateral protrusions for extending into grooves of respective gemstones to hold said gemstones, said extensions being arranged back to back and configured to receive inserts after insertion of said gemstones, said inserts pushing said extensions to securely close said respective lateral protrusions of respective supports into said grooves to hold said gemstone to said mounting.
 28. The mounting of claim 27, wherein said supports and extensions comprise a soft metal.
 29. The mounting of claim 20 when incorporated into an item of jewelry such that the item of jewelry comprises a base and a plurality of coronet mountings for mounting gemstones and a plurality of gemstones mounted on said plurality of coronet mountings and invisibly mounted on said item of jewelry, the item of jewelry further comprising wedges inserted between said coronets to secure walls of said coronets into grooves of said gemstones.
 30. The item of jewelry of claim 29, wherein said base comprises injection moulded plastic and said plurality of coronet mountings are made of metal.
 31. The item of jewelry of claim 29, wherein said gemstones when assembled provide a non-planar outer outline to said item, said outline comprising curvature.
 32. A method of making jewelry using gemstones, the method comprising: inserting grooves into said gemstones; mounting said gemstones to a setting by: providing a setting having a plurality of mounting locations, providing mounting coronets at each mounting location, the mounting coronets having arms and protrusions at a distal end of respective arms to fit into said grooves; pressing said gemstones into respective coronet mountings; inserting wedges between said coronets, said wedges pressing said arms inwardly to lock said protrusions into said grooves, thereby mounting respective gemstones via inward pressure on a body of said gemstone.
 33. The method of claim 32, wherein said gemstones are flawed gemstones or false gemstones made of material weaker than a gemstone.
 34. (canceled) 